SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

For every closure in your garment there is an opening. Ironically, the same principle applies to life. But today we are focusing on sewing.

How many types of closure and openings can you handle. At least, these few ones here, you should be able to handle them as a fashion student or fashion designer.

What Are Openings And Closures?

Openings and closures are the spaces you leave on garments made to allow for wearing and removing. These openings are closes in different ways as you choose or as suits your design.

Let’s examine a few-

FACING – easy to handle and one of the basic opening techniques you learn and master as a fashion designer. It is sewn by cutting fabric of same shape around the neckline but shorter than the garment. It’s few inches long, and flipped inside or outside the garment as the design calls for.

This is made by a slit and sewing on fabric cuts to make the placket. Same or contrasting fabrics can be used to achieve this.

Hemmed openings is about the simplest, but one needs to be extra careful to avoid stretching the curves thereby giving excess. The fabric is folded in twice and sewn. As much as it appears simple, it can go wrong if care is not taken. This type is best used when working with sheer fabrics, delicate fabrics etc.

FALSE PLACKET- as the name suggests, it’s just a placement for fashion sake. It’s not exactly an opening, but sewn on the garment to give an appearance of one.

BIAS BOUND- using BIAS cut fabrics or bias tape / ribbons to finish the garment opening. It can be done inwards or outward. When sewing this, avoid stretching the bias fabric/ tape and the fabric. Stretching either of this will equally alter the size of the opening originally planned. And may cause gaping.

FLY OPENING -for zipper closures. It’s a layover kind of opening. Used mostly on trousers but not for trousers only, can be used in skirts, blouses, dresses, etc.

This openings are on the seam lines. Side, back, shoulder etc. Any type of zipper can be used. But the use of invisible zippers is common with this type of opening in menswear lately.

OVERLAPPED OPENINGS as seen in wraps or surplice designs, jackets, tops, and more. This can be used in a way it works with the design you are working on.

BACK OPENINGS- who doesn’t know a back opening? No one. Simply and can be used among side facing, bias bound, false placket, zippers on and on. When making garments won’t high front neckline and you want to avoid zippers, back opening can be used and closed with fasteners of your choice. – hook and eye, snaps, etc.

GATHERED/ DRAWSTRING – commonly seen in off shoulder maxi tops and dresses, or any other kind of garment. Here little excess are drawn together to make the opening firm. Also used in finishing skirts, trousers etc.

The art of sewing is a constant lesson. Don’t stop learning.

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